Bienvenue à Marseille (Pt. 7)
By Ashonté S. Lyles
“Our Day in Palma” was a whirlwind of adventure! Marlon and I started the day with a delicious breakfast onboard the Symphony of the Seas before contacting Dad and Kimiyo aka ‘Pathfinder’ and learned they were already touring the Royal Palace of La Almudaina. We caught up to them just after we stumbled on something unexpected, a dancing panda. Later we found the Spanish island to be filled with the unexpected, from the vibrant art, and serenading musicians, to culinary adventures at the Cappuccino Grand Café. We bid farewell to Palma, returned to the ship, and had another unexpected encounter with an artist, Craig Tracy. Formal night had us in our best dress and ready for escargot; afterward, we headed to Deck 5 for professional photos where we all “Struck a pose,” before getting back into more casual attire. Lastly, Marlon and I danced the night away at the Boardwalk silent party.
Where are We Today?
Bienvenue à Marseille, where the atmosphere is a unique blend of political intrigue and laid-back nonchalance. This bustling port city in southern France offers a fascinating mix of European, African, and Mediterranean influences converging to create a savory roux of cultures. Marlon and I had been here before, so we knew the city had a dynamic energy and we were eager to introduce the winding streets, historic landmarks, and bustling markets of Marseille to Dad and Kimiyo. From the picturesque Old Port to the imposing Notre Dame de la Garde Basilica overlooking the city, Marseille promised to captivate us with its charm and character. Get ready for another day of adventure and discovery in this enchanting coastal gem!
Here We GEAUX (go) Again!
Our ship arrived at 9 am and the gangway opened at 9:30 am with an all-aboard time scheduled strictly at 5:30 pm. Although walking into town is possible as it is only 6 km or 3.7 miles away, it is recommended to shuttle or taxi in, also we knew we had a considerable amount walking ahead on our self-guided reintroduction to Marseille. Royal Caribbean offered a bookable shuttle via the Royal App; however, tickets were $20 per person, making the shuttle more expensive than a taxi for our four-member crew. Following the advice of our My Time Dining Hosts, Princess, and John, we secured a taxi outside of the cruise terminal area.
Know Before You GEAUX: To Shuttle or Not to Shuttle | Ship-to-Shore Options
Remember to visit Taxigator as a useful tool for taxi and ride-share rates anywhere, and consider these four factors based on the group’s needs and planned activities:
Total Cost
Travel Time
Convenience of Travel
Time Restraints
Marseille – Nobody Cares You’re There
Marseille for me is a quintessential French city. Politics, food, wine, cigarettes, a nonchalance rivaling any sleepy island town, and that certain ‘je ne sais quoi’ in the atmosphere. I honestly could not have asked for a better introduction for Dad and Kimiyo than this very Marseille taxi ride. Our driver was insistent on taking us to a place called Cassis. He extolled the pleasures of Cassis and exclaimed contempt for Marseille, “POUAH! POUAH!” What he did not know is our crew was like none he had likely encountered of cruise ship travelers. We seek everything that comes with a vibrant city like Marseille, craving authentic experiences rather than being confined to typical tourist traps which we refer to as “Beautiful cages.” Cruising for us is an opportunity to combine resort life with a taste of cultural immersion—the resort is the cruise ship, and each port is a chance to take in some culture.
NOTE:
Learn some more about our taxi ride into Marseille and Cassis, the coastal town on the French Riviera in my “Bizarre Encounters Abroad” category – “F*ck Marseille, Go to Cassis.”
In 2016, Marlon, me, and a group of friends visited Marseille. None of us had any knowledge of the city or expectations. We stayed in the heart of downtown at a hotel near the Église Saint-Vincent-de-Paul cathedral. Our companions at the time remarked on the grittiness of the city, how the locals did not seem phased by tourists, the people experiencing homelessness, and the refugee presence. All these observations only intrigued me and endeared us to Marseille. With our previous experience and the warning issued by our French taxi driver, “You’ll regret Marseille,” echoing in our minds, we descended from the taxi a short walk from the Port Vieux Pavilion.
Exploring Marseille
As we walked toward the Port Vieux Pavilion, we noticed a cityscape sign that read Marseille in large red lettering, perfect for selfies and the Gram. You can find these public art installations (cityscape signs) in cities across the globe. Not until after posing and snapping shots at this landmark, did we notice a man in the frame casually smoking a cigarette, the ‘Cigarette Man.’ He sat on a concrete barrier post and did not give two Euros about the tourists clambering for the perfect photo. Again, quintessential Marseille.
The Port Vieux Pavilion, designed by Foster and Partners and erected in 2013, is a sleek and sophisticated structure crafted from highly reflective stainless steel. It's a beautiful blend of simplicity and elegance, offering a covered area for various events and markets situated along the eastern border of the port. We snapped more photos of our reflection under the pavilion and then saw an area sectioned off in preparation for public viewing of the Rugby World Cup which was hosted by France between 8 September to 28 October 2023 in nine venues across the country; we watched some of the matches on Symphony at the Playmakers℠ Bar & Arcade.
More about the Port Vieux Pavilion, click here.
Sights & Sounds of the City
La Porte d’Aix
Before leaving the Pavilion, we grabbed some tourist maps to guide our exploration of Marseille's iconic landmarks. Led by our 'Navigator,' Marlon, we made our first pitstop at La Porte d’Aix, seizing the opportunity for a quick photo session. Laughing, we recreated the poses from the previous night's formal event aboard the ship. Originally conceived in 1784 to honor Louis XVI's support of the U.S. during the American War of Independence, the triumphal arch stands as a testament to history. Despite construction setbacks due to the French Revolution, it was finally completed in 1839. Triumphal arches, a Roman tradition celebrating victories in war, dot the European landscape, with the famous Arc de Triomphe in Paris being among the most renowned. Keep an eye out for these monuments during your European travels—they hold intriguing stories of past triumphs and struggles.
Gare de Marseille-Saint-Charles
Our next stop, the Gare de Marseille-Saint-Charles, is the city's bustling heart for transportation, linking travelers to trains, buses, subways, and trams. It's not just any train station – it's the gateway to adventures, especially with the TGV – Train à Grande Vitesse (high-speed train) whisking you off to Paris in a mere three hours instead of the usual seven and a half by car. But first things first: the restroom quest is always an adventure abroad. We embarked on a mission to locate it amidst the lack of signage, endured a long line, and faced a surprising fee!
We emerged from the station to the stairs that showcase an outdoor sculpture gallery, with breathtaking bronze and stone masterpieces. The carvings narrate the city's vibrant trading history with Asia and Africa, alongside coats of arms from various French cities. Among them, my favorites were "Colonies d'Asie" and "Colonies d'Afrique" by Louis Botinelly, though the term "colony" brought to mind our world's complex past. With the most visited attraction, the iconic Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica, watching over Marseille from the distant mountains, the summit of the Saint Charles Station stairs offered an unparalleled panoramic view of the city. Before moving on, we snapped some photos, aiming to recreate memories from 2016, with Dad striking a Hip-Hop pose next to Marlon.
Église Saint-Vincent-de-Paul Basilica
Next on the tour-de-Marseille was the impressive Église Saint-Vincent-de-Paul basilica. The Gothic-style church sits on Cours Franklin Roosevelt named after the American President. The church was dedicated in 1886 and built on top of a demolished convent of the Reformed Augustinians, members of Catholic religious orders. Sculptor Louis Botinelly laid hands on this historic building as well, he created the Saint Joan of Arc statue that greets visitors outside. We entered and quietly took some pictures of the architecture and stained-glass windows. We had visited this cathedral in 2016 also, it was still a beautiful work of art.
WikiList of Louis Bontinelly sculptures around Europe. Click here.
Fashion District
My bonus mom, Kimiyo, works for the high-end retailer Hermès, and I love them and most things Louis-V so we booked it over to Rue Grignan where they are right next door like McDonald’s and Burger King in the States. Covid restrictions were still in place at these stores, their policy only allowing groups of two people together at a time. Likely, this restriction has more to do with theft, Marseille has protests like New Orleans has parades, they must be ready to shut it down if something breaks out.
Coffee Break
I strive to find local coffee shops and try coffee around the world, hey, Marlon needs his beer, cheese, and doner kebab, and I need my coffee, chocolate, baked goods, and rum. I also collect mugs from Starbucks as many people do, so of course I had to stop at Starbucks for a Marseille “You are Here” series mug.
On Display in Marseille
French historian Emile Témime wrote about the waves of migration to Marseille from the late 19th Century up to 1985 in Vingtième Siècle, Revue d’Histoire vol. 7 (Year 1985), remarking on the city’s diversity:
“To one who studies it at some distance, Marseille looks like a melting pot, like a mirror reflecting, more or less faithfully, all the major waves of migration across the Mediterranean area. The diverse strata, overlaying each other, that one may even discern in the make-up of Marseille’s modern-day population, closely correspond to those major waves.”
Monsieur Témime’s observations were correct. Near the basilica, we encountered a French woman expressing her frustration possibly with these waves of newcomers, by yelling aloud in French with colorful language and gestures toward passing cars. Additionally, we observed a diverse mix of people from various ethnic backgrounds. In 2016, we noticed an influx of Arab and North African immigrants and asylum seekers, whereas this time, we observed a significant presence of individuals from the African Diaspora. Among them, we saw many men and women dressed in a variety of traditional Islamic clothing. At the Saint Charles Station, I observed a poignant scene: a young mother of Afro-Latin heritage engaged in a heated argument with her daughter in French, while the child, seemingly unfazed, played on the stairs. Though I couldn't discern the mother's origin, it was evident that her daughter was a product of Marseille's defiant eccentricity.
Passing down Rue du Marché des Capucins we passed a produce market in the middle of the street. As we continued walking, all around us we saw remnants of the protests from earlier in the year over France’s pension reform to raise the retirement age; boarded-up windows, graffiti, and signs cursing the French PM.
We stopped to eat pizza at Pizza Charly, they have their own beer, ‘La Blonde‘ which we purchased as well. In the courtyard near where we were seated, I noticed a man bleeding from the head appearing unbothered and talking with an older man. Suddenly a woman came from seemingly nowhere with a bottle of champagne giving it to the bleeding man, then disappearing as quickly as she had appeared. Another man, who I assumed was in a hurry to get to Saint Charles Station, attempted and failed to ride an electric scooter at top speed with a large suitcase in tow, he fell, and the suitcase went flying in the opposite direction. No one batted an eye or even looked up from their meals.
Mais si, Marseille (But of course, Marseille)!
Pizza Charly, "Pizza made hallal in Marseille" - https://www.pizza-charly.com/en/
Let Them Eat Cake
In our travels, Marlon and I always make a point to check out local grocery stores for affordable wine, beer, and snacks to sample. Our last stop was a very Marseille grocery store with broken windows, likely from the pension protests, and armed security at the entrance. Despite this, we proceeded on our mission.
Everything went smoothly until it was time to pay. Everywhere in Europe the preferred form of payment is contactless electronic via apps or credit card, which wasn't an issue for me using Apple Pay, but Dad and Kimiyo had cash. Things took a turn when Dad tried to pay with a €100 bill, causing the system to crash. Complicating matters, the store's layout required payment before exiting, and the cashier couldn't verify the bill.
Amidst language barriers and malfunctioning translation apps, the manager's unhelpful response of "J’ne sais pas," accompanied by a shrug, left us stranded. However, luck was on our side when the system suddenly sprang back to life. This close call served as a reminder that Marseille, much like the 'Cigarette Man,' doesn't concern itself with your travel plans.
We managed to navigate our way out of the grocery store maze and caught a taxi back to the ship just in time. Marlon and I decided to forgo the formal dining room experience and, instead, changed into our swimwear and headed straight to the adults-only pool in the Solarium. While lounging, we grabbed some food and watched Marseille slowly disappear on the horizon.
You Don’t Marseille?
As the sun set on our adventure in Marseille, we couldn’t help but reflect on the wild array of experiences we'd added to our memories. From the bustling streets to the historic landmarks, to the ‘Cigarette Man,’ the ‘Bleeding Man,’ and the ‘Cursing French Woman’ who were all simultaneously unbothered and very bothered. We cannot forget the taxi driver who wanted us to go to Cassis. Marseille has left an indelible mark on our hearts and minds. The juxtaposition of political fervor and easygoing charm has given us a deeper appreciation of the complexities of this dynamic city.
But our journey doesn't end here. Next on our itinerary awaits the enchanting city of Florence, Italy, where history, art, and culinary delights await us. So, we bid À bientôt (see you soon) to Marseille, with your gritty charm and captivating allure, thank you for the memories. Now we set our sights on the Tuscan gem, ready for new adventures. Ciao Italia!
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